PASO ROBLES | CALIFORNIA | $40
Black fruit times three: black cherry, black currant and blackberry, plus notes of licorice, cacao, chalk and hints of chai spice. Concentrated fruit, well-balanced (its 15.2% alcohol undetectable) and complex. A big wine, indeed, with wonderfully gamey flavors of wild fruit and earth tamed by barrel and bottle to subtlety. As Jeeves to Wooster. 100% Mourvèdre from Denner Vineyard. A very good wine. (Reviewed 5/24/14)