PASO ROBLES | CALIFORNIA | $18
Concentrated blackberry fruit with black cherry and raspberry, and notes of violets, chalk, tar and orange peel. Moderately complex and a little gamey with pleasantly unrestrained flavors and a slightly grainy texture. He arrives from a long day working the herd, nearly a hundred head, exhaustion revealed as latent lines of sweat and dust pushed together by a near constant grimace and now by a broad smile. A good to very good wine and a good value. (Reviewed 1/7/13)