Piper-Heideieck Brut NV

CHAMPAGNE | FRANCE | $40
Lemon fruit and zest with green apple and young pear, and notes of pineapple, stone minerals, vanilla, chervil and green tea. Focused, pleasantly dry with satisfying acidity and classic effervescence. This bright and bubbly child enlivens the soirée with her look-at-me performance — attention-intent, but less than over the top — and yet there’s sufficient talent to deliver a sublime, entertaining choreography; best of all, the child eventually leaves allowing the adults to carry on. 55% Pinot Noir, 30% Pinot Meunier and 15% Chardonnay. Among Wine Spectator’s Top 100 Wines of 2012. Commonly available at $30 to $36. A very good wine. (Reviewed 1/1/13).