PASO ROBLES | CALIFORNIA | $42
Deep black cherry and loganberry fruit bolstered with firm flavors of cardamom, earth and chalk with a hint of smoke. A big wine, robust in every sense, but neither overtly jammy nor fruit-dominant; it’s balanced with fruit and savory working together yielding a complex, satisfying quaff. Velvety texture with a slight grain that gives a satisfying little chew. She’s full-figured, she is, and a bit forward — enough to elicit your blush — and yet there’s something entirely and wholesomely comfortable. A very good wine. (Reviewed 12/23/12)