PASO ROBLES | CALIFORNIA | $32
Full bodied with glossy blackberry, purple plum and dark cherry fruit, plus complex flavors of smoke, cocoa, citrus pith and chalk. Refined and somewhat laden in the mouth, serving up a pleasant heavy-silk texture. There’s an enjoyable fruit-savory-mineral-fruit story circle about this wine. She spins quite an intricate tale, one that enraptures, then seduces — but little harm is done. After all, 14.5% alcohol is merely modest by Paso Robles standards. A very good wine. (Reviewed 7/8/12)