LODI | CALIFORNIA | $12
With plenty of hickory smoke on the nose — almost unnaturally so — big, zesty dark berry fruit up front and notes of cedar and camphor, here’s a bargain that stood out in a recent tasting of 50-plus wines. One minor flaw is a slightly off finish. Nevertheless, this is a very good wine — despite its bearing an animal on the label. (Reviewed 11/13/10)
