CALIFORNIA | $25
Jammy boysenberry, ripe red cherry and purple plum with hints of dried apricot, graphite, sumac and bay. Satin texture and moderately complex. Sufficiently balanced to mask an outsized 15.4% alcohol. Big, muscular and a bit in your face. More brawn than brains, this, but there’s enough upstairs to have a conversation. A very good wine. (Reviewed 10/30/11)